State Street Finds Fall Perfection

Good Bite

Pictured: The free-range half chicken at State Street features a harissa glaze that achieves an ideal balance of spice and smoke. Photo by Kevin Allen.

When friends reach out for Sarasota restaurant recommendations for a special occasion, I usually give them a list of five of my favorites. State Street Eating House + Cocktails is always on that list, and I was reminded why last week.

Of the countless ways that someone could prepare chicken, I found out during this experience that there is, in fact, a perfect approach: chef Michelle Wolforth’s harissa chicken. It’s butter basted and harissa glazed, with a side of incredibly light and creamy Nora Mill grits, surprisingly flavor-packed glazed heirloom carrots and shishito peppers.

The harissa glaze coats the large, round plate that houses the free range half chicken and its geniously crafted companions. The outside of the chicken is crispy and flavorful. Inside, it’s tender, juicy. Every bite blends so well with the smoky, spicy harissa. There’s a kick to this glaze, but not the type of kick that overwhelms and eventually overpowers the flavor of the meat.

Also worth a bushel of heaping praise is Wolforth’s cioppino. Phenomenally fresh mussels, shrimp, and a catch of the day join with toasted fregola, coriander butter and charred ciabatta. The star of this dish is the spicy tomato fennel broth. I intend no hyperbole when I say that I did not know tomatoes could do this. It’s been five days and I keep thinking about it.

In addition to the delightful elevated American cuisine, no State Street trip is complete without experiencing their craft cocktails, which served as a bookend for us. They were the perfect start to our evening, and punctuated with a nightcap cocktail at the bar next door. In between, a truly memorable meal. A taste of perfection.

State Street Eating House + Cocktails, 1533 State Street, Sarasota, statestreetsrq.com, 941-951-1533.

Pictured: The free-range half chicken at State Street features a harissa glaze that achieves an ideal balance of spice and smoke. Photo by Kevin Allen.

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